In the last of this three-part brow series, I will be, finally, talking about application tips and tricks. I’m no pro, so how I do my brows are entirely out of my experience and internet “savvy”. That said, feel free to adapt and modify these steps to fit your own lifestyle, expertise and/or indulgence.
Now assuming you have already groomed (Part One) and chosen your brow products (Part Two), we’re now ready to draw some brows! I’ll be sharing with you the dot-trace-fill method, something I’ve loosely adapted from Charlotte Tilbury and from countless brow tutorials I’ve read/watched. I don’t this method all the time, to be honest–some days I have great looking brows, some days I don’t. As much of a brow freak I am, I don’t have plenty of time at my disposal every single day I’m doing my face,and what I’m about to show you here is the long method. This usually gives me the best looking brows and I use pencil, powder and mascara. This might look tehnical, but after you get used to it, you wont be needing to do all the steps anymore. Let’s get started!
1. DOT. Brush your brows with a spoolie until you get the hairs lined up in an orderly manner. You have to be able to see where they are for you to be able to mark and map well.
You have to make three (or five) dots marking the points where your brows start, arch and end as illustrated by my meager Photoshop skillz below:
a) start of your lower brow from your nose (put a pencil on the side of your nose and mark where it hits the brow);
b) the arch of your upper brow (can be obvious from how your brow hairs look, or by lining up the pencil diagonally from the side of your nose to the middle of your iris, if you want a more pronounced arch, raise this dot higher);
c) the tail end of you lower brow (line up the pencil from the side of your nose to the outer edge of your eyes);
optional d) the start of your upper brow from the nose
optional e) the arch of your lower brow (if you want a more pronounced arch, raise this dot higher)
2. TRACE. Connect dots A, E, and C. Use a sharp pencil so you don’t have to mark with a heavy hand—you want light, whispery lines as these are just guidelines. Then connect B to C to form the tail, then dot D to B. I make sure the lines B-C and E-C are sharp and clearly defined.
If you want thicker/straighter brows, connect A directly to C, I personally prefer this shape because I don’t like very arched brows.
(I really hope you’re able to follow my connect the dots logic)
3. FILL. Take your brush, dip in the powder and make short stabbing strokes on the area bound by B, E and C (the arch and tail parts). Most of my filling in goes here as I really want a defined tail and arch. With whatever’s left on the brush, fill in the rest of the brows brushing from the middle towards the nose.
I hold the brush this way when filling in the outer half of my brows to get a good color going.
I flip the brush the other way and sweep it inwards to blend and transfer color to the inner half of my brows, no additional powder necessary.
4. FINISH. I brush my brows several times to blend the pigment well, and to blend in the pencil to the powder. After that I like to put a bit of brow mascara to tint and set the hairs in place. I carefully place enough amount and blend again using my spoolie, never the brow mascara wand coz that would put too much product in. I go over the spots that i missed, or sharpen the tail some more if it becomes too light after much blending.
And there you have it, my made-up brow. I don’t think my brows look A++ here, sorry, but it was kinda hard doing my brows and shooting at the same time. I hope I was able to give you valuable insight as to how do my brows, and please let me know if you have any questions!
Note: I seem to have written over Part 1 with this, so the comments from that post were carried over here–sorry!